Research Article |
Corresponding author: Fernando E. Vega ( trainofstories@gmail.com ) Academic editor: Lorenzo Peruzzi
© 2025 Fernando E. Vega, Aaron P. Davis.
This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY 4.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.
Citation:
Vega FE, Davis AP (2025) When is coffee not coffee? Luigi Ferdinando Marsigli's depictions of the coffee plant in “Notizie, di Costantinopoli; sopra la pianta del caffè” (1703). Italian Botanist 19: 65-85. https://doi.org/10.3897/italianbotanist.19.146007
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The late 17th and early 18th centuries were an era in which the coffee drink was first becoming known throughout Europe, and there was a strong interest in disseminating what the plant looked like through the use of botanical illustrations. In 1685, Luigi Ferdinando Marsili published a coffee-related treatise entitled “Bevanda asiatica”. This was followed in 1703 with the publication of the monograph “Notizie, di Costantinopoli; sopra la pianta del caffè”. “Bevanda asiatica” conveys interesting information on a coffee-related manuscript acquired by Marsigli in Constantinople (present day Istanbul), as well as knowledge he gained as a slave of the Ottoman empire, when he was tasked with making coffee. “Notizie, di Costantinopoli ”includes various engravings supposedly depicting coffee plants. We present the original watercolors used to create the engravings in “Notizie, di Costantinopoli”and present evidence for the first time since publication, 322 years ago, demonstrating that none of the engravings depict coffee plants.
Arabica, botanical illustrations, café, Coffea, kaffee, Marsili, Yemen
Becoming familiar with the history of coffee (Coffea arabica L.) in the Western world, reveals four main areas of interest starting in the late 1500s through the early-1700s. The first is the knowledge that a drink under various names in different lands and based on seeds from a plant in “Arabia Felix” (present day Yemen) was being consumed in Egypt, Syria and Turkey, from where it entered Europe. The second area of interest is the positive and negative effects of coffee consumption on human health, as physicians at the time had to be experts on plants that could be used to cure ailments. The third area of interest is the cultivation of the plant in areas outside its area of origin, such as the British, Spanish, French and Dutch colonies. Finally, the fourth area involves the elucidation of what the plant looked like based on its botanical characters, which was frequently communicated through botanical descriptions and illustrations.
The first botanical illustration depicting a coffee plant was published by Alpino in “De plantis Aegypti liber” (
In this paper we explore two coffee-related publications by the Bolognese Luigi Ferdinando Count of Marsigli, or Marsili (1658–1730): “Bevanda asiatica” (
In 1685, Marsigli published a 47-page treatise entitled “Bevanda asiatica” (
“Bevanda asiatica”, written in Italian, is divided in three sections. The first is entitled “Eminentissimo Signore” and is written in honor of Cardinal Francesco Buonvisi, whose name appears on the title page. The section includes a short treatise on the use of drinks among people in different countries, including the use of “cavé” [i.e., coffee] by the Turkish people. Marsigli also informs the Cardinal that he is including a translation of a Turkish manuscript that discusses “the origin, growth, maturation, and preparation of the fruit, to reduce it to a state, which is capable of being able to form such a drink; and so that it may not be strange to see that the production of the said plant is narrated in a manner so contrary to what has been written up to now” (
The second section is the parallel Italian–Ottoman Turkish translation of a manuscript written by a Turkish man to whom Marsigli refers to as “Cuseim Efendi”, “Cosain Efendi” and “Cossain Effendi”. The correct name for the manuscript’s author is Hezârfen Hüseyin Efendi (the word “efendi” was used as an expression of respect), from whom Marsigli acquired the manuscript in Constantinople (present day Istanbul) in 1679 (
It is not clear whether Marsigli translated the manuscript, as this is not explicitly stated in “Bevanda asiatica”.
The third paragraph in Hezârfen Hüseyin’s manuscript discusses an Arabic text by Dā’ūd ibn ‘Umar al-Anṭākī. The Italian text refers to Anṭākī’s as “Schaich Daud Miscerli” and as “Sciaich Daud”: “There was one called Schaich Daud Miscerli, from Cairo, who wrote that at the beginning of March it begins to grow, and that in August it is harvested, and that the tree is not taller than three palms, and as thick as a finger, and that its flower is white, and the fruit is known to everyone, and when cut open it is known to have a pit inside, which is also called the stone, and it is made of two pieces; and the wonder is, that one of those pieces, or grains, is black, and the other tends towards yellow, and the yellow one is better. Its nature in the first degree is hot, and in the second degree dry; (although some others have said that it is cold and dry, but they have strayed from the truth); its skin is hot, and the coffee plant itself is temperate, or could be said to be cold, and in fact it can be cold, while it is a little sour, a part indicating coldness. And up to here is the opinion of Sciaich Daud.” The description incorrectly states that “the tree is no taller than three palms”. A “palm” refers to the botanical term “palma” or “palmus”, which is based on the width of the palm of the hand, i.e., ca. 8 cm (
Once Anṭākī’s text is summarized, we learn that “However, I, Cosain, nicknamed Hefarsen (that is, of a thousand virtues or sciences), say that I have been continuously for more than two and a half years in Hiemena, or Arabia Felix and have traveled all its surroundings, lands, mountains, castles, and have found that in only two counties or districts does the tree that produces coffee grow. One is called the county of Usab, which includes the mountains that are around Zubeit up to opposite the place called Beitulfachiè, and the other county is called Naharii, near the strait opposite Gezan Bender”. Thus begins one of the earliest descriptions by someone that had observed coffee plants in Yemen in situ, where he found the coffee tree growing in two different areas. The trees, some of which are 20 to 30 years old, have white flowers, are very similar to cherry trees (“ciraso”; botanically various species of the genus Prunus L.) and are planted in a straight line. When the fruit reaches maturity, “it becomes dark red like the color of a wild cherry, and sweet like it; and if such fruits are collected with the stems, and mixed with our cherries from Castelli, except in eating them, and for the smell, and for the two grains, which have inside, they would not be distinguished from the cherry, indeed it can be said, that they are sweeter than the cherry”. Hüseyin briefly discusses the drying of coffee on flat terraces, followed by dehulling. This is followed by one way to prepare a coffee drink: “In those countries they boil the dried peel, like that of a grape, while they boil it in water, which they drink in summer to moisten and refresh, and because of this sweetness all those who drink it believe it to be sugar, and in our countries they do not send it, because they do not pay for it as they do for grains: and this is all I can say about the shape, and quality, and plant of the Cavé, which I have seen, of the use, and of the flavor of its fruit, which I ate”.
Hezârfen Hüseyin continues with the properties of the coffee drink and states that “by drinking it in the morning it preserves the stomach very much, indeed that it is useful in the highest degree to those who are taken by drunkenness, and especially to opium drinkers” and that “it has the virtue of removing sleep, it is not surprising, that it is of a nature equal to some hot medicines, which have the virtue of cheering, moving the spirits, taking away sleep from man”. The manuscript translation ends by stating that the drink “will be more pleasing to the taste when mixed with saffron, musk, raw amber, aloe wood, or clove, which will be very suitable in the winter, as well as sugar. If cooked a lot, it will be beneficial to those who suffer from blood boils, and it is an undoubted thing, that if one drinks it ten or twelve times a day, the Cavé will become dull and melancholic, and on the contrary, drinking it moderately, he will not know melancholy, and will enjoy happiness”.
The third section of “Bevanda asiatica” deals with Marsigli’s experience in “l’arte di cucinar questo frutto” (i.e., “the art of cooking this fruit”, i.e, the preparation of the coffee drink). This art was gained by Marsigli in a most unusual way. In 1683, when he was serving in the army of the Habsburg Holy Roman Empire, he was wounded and became a prisoner of the Ottoman Empire prior to the two-month long Siege of Vienna (July 17–September 12, 1683). He was held as a slave from July 2, 1683 to March 25, 1684, when ransom was paid for his freedom (
The only engraving in “Bevanda asiatica” is an attempt to illustrate a coffee plant on the title page. It includes a landscape with hills and trees and the terminal part of a branch with two alternate leaves that have serrated margins. Coffee (Coffea) leaves are not serrated but rather entire, i.e. smooth, and without teeth, lobes, etc.; cherry (Prunus sp. pl.) leaves are serrate or serrate-crenate. There are three round fruits attached to the branch, all of them resembling the fruits of cherry and not coffee. The engraving also depicts three seeds that are perfectly recognizable as coffee seeds. This makes sense as coffee seeds (beans) are the marketable product of the coffee drink, and were widely available at the time. The engraver’s signature on the lower right corner appears to be “Ac. G. f”, with the “f” being an abbreviation for the Latin word “fecit”, i.e, “made it” (the engraving).
In 1703, Marsigli published a 14-page coffee monograph entitled “Notizie, di Costantinopoli; sopra la pianta del caffè da Luigi Ferdin. Conte Marsigli” (“Notes, from Constantinople; About the Coffee Plant by Luigi Ferdinando Count of Marsigli.” The bottom half of the title page provides the Latin title, beginning with the Latinized name for the author: “Aloysi Ferdin. Com. Marsigli notitiae à Constantinopoli; circa plantam, quae calidi potûs coava, materiam ministrat” (“Luigi Ferdinando Count of Marsigli notes from Constantinople; concerning the plant which provides the material for the hot drink coffee”). The bilingual title reflects the fact that both languages are interspersed throughout the monograph.
The lower part of the title page is adorned with an engraving that is very similar to the one in “Bevanda asiatica”. It includes a background of trees and hills, and superimposed on these, six alternate leaves, with serrate margins, four fruits with some resemblance to the shape of a coffee fruit, and three perfectly recognizable coffee seeds. The engraver initials are also “Ac. G. f”. The place of publication or name of the publisher are not stated in the monograph.
The “Praefatiuncula” (“Preface”) in “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” was written in Latin by Johann Samuel Schoder, who worked as an assistant for Georg Christoph Eimmart, an engraver and astronomer in Nuremberg (
In the Preface, Schoder makes it clear that he is simply relaying information provided by Marsigli: “Here then, beloved reader, are the diagrams which, from the forest of Marsilius’ natural observations, while he is abroad serving his Caesar, the most illustrious and excellent author has so far been permitted to excerpt by his favor, and thus to beguile our leisure” (translated from the Latin). What did Schoder mean by “serving his Caesar”?
In 1683 Marsigli commenced his service in the army of the Holy Roman Emperor, Leopold I and participated in various military campaigns, including the 1683 Ottoman siege of Vienna and the Great Turkish War (1683–1699) between the Holy League (Austria, Russia, Venice and Poland) and the Ottoman Empire. The war ended in 1699 with the Treaty of Carlowitz. Once the treaty was ratified, Marsigli became the leader of the Austrian border commission in charge of the demarcation of the 850 km Habsburg-Ottoman borders, together with his Turkish counterpart. He completed this task in 1701 and returned to Vienna (
A similar situation occurred with Marsigli’s “Dissertazione epistolare del fosforo minerale” (
Schoder’s “Preface” is followed by four pages of coffee plants descriptions and five pages of engravings depicting six supposed coffee plants (Figs
A (left) B (right). These figures are among five watercolors acquired by Marsigli in Istanbul, supposedly depicting coffee plants. Marsigli identified them as separate figures, despite being part of the same watercolor. A is identified as “Zellebe Caffessi” while B is identified as “Beitilfaki caf:” (present day Bayt al-Faqih). See text for Ottoman Turkish text transcription and translation. Neither branch represents a coffee plant. © Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna – Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna. All rights reserved. (BUB Ms. Marsili 1044, 087D, f. 34r).
“Caffe Iemeni” (Yemeni coffee) branch with fruits. The color and position of the leaves (alternate) as well as the shape of the fruit are incorrect for coffee plants. See text for Ottoman Turkish text transcription and translation. © Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna – Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna. All rights reserved. (BUB Ms. Marsili 1044, 87D, f. 35r).
The descriptions for each engraving vary and might include a description of leaves, flowers, fruit (where appropriate), and other details. The source for the information included in the descriptions is assumed to be Marsigli and was likely based on studying the watercolors. Marsigli had an interest in botany and he owned many botanical books (
If Marsigli acquired the watercolors in 1679 together with Hezârfen Hüseyin’s manuscript, why did he not mention or include the engravings in “Bevanda asiatica”, published in 1685? Could they have been acquired during his second visit to Istanbul in 1691–1692? Even though
The watercolors acquired by Marsigli in Istanbul are depicted in Figs
A supposed coffee tree from the land of Yemen. The leaves are both alternate and opposite. They are also serrated, which is not a trait of coffee plants. The size and shape of the fruits are also incorrect for coffee. See text for Ottoman Turkish and Italian text transcription and translation. © Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna – Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna. All rights reserved. (BUB, Ms. Marsili 87D, f. 33r).
A purported Yemeni coffee sapling, supposedly the third coffee species identified. The alternate leaves and their color are not appropriate for coffee. See text for Ottoman Turkish and Italian text transcription and translation. © Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna – Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna. All rights reserved. (BUB Ms. Marsili 1044, 087D, f. 38r).
Leaves and flowers of “coffee” plants. The shape and position of the leaves (alternate), is not characteristic for coffee plants. See text for Ottoman Turkish and Italian text transcription and translation. © Alma Mater Studiorum Università di Bologna – Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna. All rights reserved. (BUB Ms. Marsili 1044, 087D, f. 36r).
Fig.
The handwritten Ottoman Turkish text above the plant in Fig.
The handwritten Ottoman Turkish text above the branch in Fig.
The handwritten Ottoman Turkish text on the bottom left side of Fig.
The Ottoman Turkish text on the left side of Fig.
The monograph description for Fig.
The Ottoman Turkish text on the lower right side in Fig.
As in the title page, the next-to-last page in the monograph includes a bilingual heading: “Note, sopra la pianta del caffè” (Italian; translated as “Notes on the coffee plant”) followed by “Annotationes, in plantam, de cujus fructu paratur caffè” (Latin; translated as “Annotations on the plant, from whose fruit coffee is prepared.”). This is followed by two pages of excerpts on coffee-related writings. The first excerpt, taken from Ray’s “Historiae plantarum” (1688) is followed by an excerpt from Togni’s “Raccolta delle singolari qualità del caffè” (1675). A third excerpt is attributed to “Cusaim Effendi” (i.e., Hezârfen Hüseyin Effendi) but it does not originate in Hezârfen Hüseyin’s manuscript in
What is quite unusual about the depiction of the coffee leaves in the watercolors is that the arrangement and shape of the coffee leaves illustrated by Alpino over 100 years earlier was correct (
In 1704, Valentini published the first edition of “Museum Museorum”, which includes a discussion on coffee and its misuse, accompanied by an unsigned engraving copied from Fig.
In 1705, Spon published “Bevanda asiatica: hoc est; Pysiologia potus café” (“Asian Beverage: that is; the physiology of the coffee drink”;
Spon’s Preface is followed by an unpaginated section including Ray’s coffee-related text (
It could be hypothesized that being familiar with Alpino’s coffee branch engraving, as discussed above, might have influenced Marsigli’s decision to publish his monograph, as it would be providing new and unusual botanical engravings of what he identified as three different types of coffee plants, most of which had alternate leaves, some indistinctly 3-lobed, and most with serrated leaf margins. Even though we do not know how many copies of “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” were printed, we know that 250 copies of “Dissertazione epistolare del fosforo” (
The extreme rarity of “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” could be used to explain why, to the best of our knowledge, there are no publications firmly stating that Marsigli’s identifications are erroneous. Until the “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” copy at the Universitätsbibliothek Erlangen-Nürnberg was made available online in 2018, it would have been extremely difficult to consult Marsigli’s monograph, although all the botanical engravings were published in
Referring to the coffee tree, Valentini stated in 1714 that “It is described in the most beautiful way by the honored Italian Count Luigi Ferdinand Marsigli in the so-called “Notitia di Constantinopoli Sopra la pianta del Caffè”, in which book various species are depicted, the most prominent of which can be seen here in the large figure” (translated from the German;
In a 1715 letter on the historical confusion and debate surrounding the classification of coffee, Volkamer commented on Marsigli’s botanical engravings: “… Count Marsigli, spared no expense in this matter. He had very exact images of the tree and fruit painted, brought from the Province of Yemen through Constantinople, engraved on six copper plates, and exposed them to public view. These figures, however, lacking a certain character, disappoint the wishes and expectations of the curious” (translated from the Latin;
In 1715, de la Roque published “Voyage de l’Arabie heureuse” (
In recent times, the comments on Marsigli’s engravings have been quite positive. According to
Marsigli’s two coffee-related books present a microcosm of the coffee world in the early 1700s: a popular drink from a distant country was still a novelty and its botanical identity and medical properties were areas of widespread interest among the cognoscenti. At the time of publication, the “coffee” plant engravings in “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” must have been quite striking because they presented substantially more coffee plant morphology than any previously published book. If Marsigli tried to erase the evidence by not distributing “Notizie, di Costantinopoli”, thus explaining its rarity (as suggested above), his attempt completely failed when Valentini kept publishing an engraving of Fig.
Linnaeus did not cite either one of Marsigli’s coffee-related books in his description of Coffea in “Hortus Cliffortianus” (
For assistance with several issues related to Marsigli, we are grateful to Paola Mario (Biblioteca storica di Medicina e botanica Vincenzo Pinali e Giovanni Marsili, Università degli Studi di Padova, Italy); Silke Graßl and Susanne Schweizer (Universitätsbibliothek Erlangen-Nürnberg, Germany); Michael Josef Stuck (Bayerische Staatsbibliothek, Germany); and Thomas Bruggmann (Zentralbibliothek Zürich, Germany). Special thanks to Elisa Pederzoli (Biblioteca Universitaria di Bologna - Collezioni speciali, Università di Bologna, Italy) for locating the watercolors and other Marsigli-related manuscripts, and for her comments on the manuscript; to Gisela Procházka-Eisl (Institut für Orientalistik, Universität Wien, Austria) for the transcription and translation of the Ottoman Turkish text in the figures; to Ilaria Bortolotti (Comune di Bologna, Settore Biblioteche e Welfare culturale, Italy) for information on botanical books owned by Marsigli as well as other topics; to Sachiko Kusukawa (Trinity College, Cambridge, UK) for her suggestions on why the engravings in “Notizie, di Costantinopoli” are not the reversed version of the watercolors; and to Wendy S. Higgins for insightful comments on the manuscript.